Ted Lasso, The Making of the Phoenix Jacket

In summer 2025, Hand & Lock was approached by costume designer Jacky Levy with a very special commission. The smash hit Apple TV series Ted Lasso was due to begin filming its 4th series with the first episode premiering in summer 2026.

On the 4th August, the first episode was released, with the whole gang back together again in Kansas, USA. The plot of the first episode follows character Rebecca, played by Hannah Waddingham as she visits a ladies tailoring store in search of a new outfit. Known for her elegant, poised and refined style, Rebecca opts for a sophisticated deep blue tailored suit - without initially realising however, that a huge embellished phoenix adorns its entire back! 

Continue reading below to find out more about the process of creating this stunning phoenix embroidery!

The process began with design meetings with the costume team as they talked us through the episode's story line and their vision for the outfit. Together, we looked at fabric swatches, colour palettes and design sketches created by Jacky Levy. Jacky selected a wide range of archival H&L samples as references to techniques and materials. We then took her initial sketches and created a refined final phoenix design.

The next stage included material selection and sampling. A large selection of sequins, beads and crystals were selected in a palette of metallic golds and silvers and a gradient of rich purples, which were dyed to match specific hues. We then began the sampling process, trialling the density and placement of the beading. 

The design was hand embroidered onto tulle, so that the final phoenix motif could be speedily appliqued onto the final jacket at the very last minute. Creating embroidery designs for TV and film productions can sometimes include quick turnarounds and last minute changes as plans are finalised.

Our embroidered phoenix design began to evolve and grow throughout the embroidery production process. 

We utilised micro bugle beads for the facial details and the design border, whilst layered sequins in a degrade of metallic gold subtly blending into silver filled the head feathers. 

The wings and tail feathers incorporated bugle beading in a smooth gradient from gold to silver, lilac and finally a strong purple with crystals scattered throughout.

The main body featured a stylised cross hatch design with cut outs, changing from gold at the birds neck to purple at the tail feathers. In the cut out sections, large crystal pendants dangled freely. 

As a final touch, a turquoise crystal was added to the Phoenix’ eye; a nod to turquoise jewellery which is popular in American country fashion. 

Once fully completed, the Phoenix was carefully cut out and all tulle trimmed away. We decided to create some of the elements, such as the tail feathers and extra wings separately, to allow for easier manipulation and placement adjustment when it came to application. 

The applique was initially trialled on a powder blue coloured suit, before later being reattached to the final dark blue jacket.

Hand & Lock is thrilled to have created this embroidery for Ted Lasso and of course the iconic Hannah Waddingham!