Goldwork for Couture Fashion

Location: Hand & Lock School for Embroidery & Creative Arts, 86 Margaret Street, Fitzrovia, London, W1W 8TE
Duration: 2 Day Workshop (10am - 4:30pm each day)

Join us for a special two-day course exploring the art of goldwork embroidery for couture fashion. Working with our expert tutors you will begin by learning the fundamentals of padding and how to build up different areas of relief within your design. You will see how padded foundations create depth and how carefully placed layers can transform a flat motif into a sculptural embroidered surface.

Once you have built your foundations you will be introduced to the specialist metals used in goldwork. You will learn the characteristics of each thread and wire so that you understand exactly how and when to use them. From there you will be taught the highest levels of application with techniques including couching, cutwork and decorative filling.

Over the two days you will create a floral sample inspired by couture fashion embroidery. By the end of the course you will have a strong foundation in padding, metal thread work and finishing techniques giving you the knowledge and confidence to begin using goldwork in your own creative practice.

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• Please read all of the course description information above and the “How the Course Works” information below before booking.

• All courses are non-refundable. If you cannot attend, please let us know as soon as possible and we will try to move you to another course.

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The design for this course takes its inspiration from the ornate floral arrangements found in couture fashion embroidery. A balance of central blossoms and branching sprays creates both structure and delicacy. Gold and metallic threads are layered with spangles to add light and texture, drawing on the splendour of historic goldwork while placing it firmly in a modern couture context. The motif shows how traditional embroidery techniques can be reimagined for fashion, giving you the chance to create something refined and timeless. 

Goldwork has its origins in Byzantine and Middle Eastern traditions where shimmering threads were used to show divine power and wealth. In the Byzantine Empire gold embroidery was reserved for royalty, clergy and nobility. Its expense and the time it took to create made it a clear marker of privilege and authority.

The technique reached a peak in the medieval era with the development of Opus Anglicanum, the celebrated English style admired across Europe for its intricate use of gold threads. Worked into ceremonial robes, religious vestments and royal garments, these embroideries often showed biblical scenes enriched with pearls and silk and became symbols of English craftsmanship.

Goldwork later returned to fashion in the Victorian period when a taste for opulence inspired new designs for clothing, furnishings and accessories. Floral and geometric motifs were often used to balance richness with refinement.

In couture fashion, goldwork has always held a special place. Designers use metal threads for texture, detail and brilliance, creating pieces that catch the light and highlight the craftsmanship behind every stitch. From haute couture gowns to intricate embellishment on accessories, goldwork continues to be a hallmark of luxury.

At Hand & Lock the tradition lives on. Goldwork is used for military and ceremonial dress, couture fashion, bespoke interiors and creative commissions. Its adaptability and enduring appeal make it as relevant today as it was in the past, and this course is designed to give you the skills to explore it in a contemporary fashion context.

• To begin this course you will be introduced to creating your own padding using both felt padding and soft string padding. The soft string padding allows you to taper the ends of the padding to achieve refined shapes that capture the delicacy required for couture fashion.

• Onto your felt and soft string bases you will then add cutwork detailing using bullion purls to build rich areas of Goldwork embroidery across your design. From here you will be introduced to a Goldwork linework technique called s’ing, which creates wrapped lines that almost resemble twisted rope in bullion.

• You will then expand your Goldwork repertoire with a filling technique called chipping, where small pieces of bullion are stitched down to create a sparkling, textured surface. Building on this, you will learn how to apply gold twist using a couching technique that secures the metal thread beautifully in place.

• To complete your piece you will add spangles (metal sequins) and pearls, bringing light, movement and elegance to your embroidery.

You will be given a full course kit with everything you need to take part. All materials and tools are provided, so you only need to bring yourself.

If you would prefer, you are welcome to bring your own mug for refreshments and your own embroidery kit. This is entirely optional and not required for the course.