A-Z of Embroidery Terms

A is for...

Appliqué - A smaller piece of embroidery sewn or attached to another material. An appliqué is usually one piece applied for the purpose of decoration. The term is borrowed from French and, in this context, means ‘applied’. Appliqué is a surface pattern that is used to decorate an aspect of a garment or product.

Arrowhead Stitch - Two straight stitches are connected in the middle to form a ‘V’ shape. This stitch can be used as a decorative design if a series of arrowhead stitches are sewn.

Anchoring - A couture technique that removes the need for knots at the back of the fabric. Through two small stitches the knot can be removed and the stitching is anchored to the fabric without any unravelling.

B is for...

Bullion - Bullion is a tiny coil which is created by wrapping a very thin piece of metal around a very small rod. You can then add different effects to the rod to get different effects with the final Bullion. There are over 50 different colours of bullion with different effects (some are smooth, some are rough, some are bright and some are wire check)

Bugle Beads - Bugle beads are thin lengths of glass cane that have been drawn through a shaping tube and cut at a slower rate than a standard typical seed bead, resulting in the long, narrow bead shape. Bugle Beads are used across multiple couture embroidery techniques. The most common embroidery technique is Tambour Beading where bugle beads are used to fill areas and create long lines. They can also be used to create relief from the fabric.

Bump - Soft String or felt can be used to create a raised surface for embroidery. Used in Goldwork to lift the metallic threads off the surface of the material. The raised area is referred to as Bump

Basting Stitch - A longer version of a running stitch, used for keeping fabrics together temporarily and able to be removed easily.

Back Stitch - The Back stitch is formed by starting off with one straight stitch and then coming up from the front of the line and connecting back to the previous stitch. Just like its name, it is a stitch that is worked backwards.

Blanket Stitch - A blanket stitch is mostly used to finish off the hems of thick fabrics and it is a bigger version of a buttonhole stitch. The thread is brought from inside the edge of the fabric and worked along down the hem. It creates a strong barrier at the hemline helping to keep fabric from fraying.

C is for...

Chain Stitch - The chain stitch is a series of loops that is connected by stitches forming a chain-like effect. It is also the stitch that is created when doing Tambour embroidery.

Chenille - Meaning fuzzy or caterpillar in French. Chenille is a fuzzy cotton yarn that has pile protruding around the surface of the yarn which can be used in embroidery to create a fluffy effect.

Couching - In embroidery, couching and ‘laid work’ are techniques in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn. This is often used in goldwork where ‘passing’ is couched down. The couching threads may be either the same colour as the laid threads or a contrasting colour. When couching threads contrast with laid threads, patterns may be worked in the couching stitches.

D is for...

Dégradé - The French word for ‘shading’ in embroidery it describes the effect  when a dense colour or pattern graduates away to nothing over the length of a material. A sleeve with a dégradé effect may be densely beaded at the shoulder before gradually becoming less beaded at the cuff.

Knotted Diamond Stitch - Worked along two parallel lines, the Knotted Diamond stitch creates a cross stitch effect with knots in all intersections. This stitch can also connect two different fabrics together as it is worked along two different lines.

Digitising - This is the process of converting artwork and designs into a digital file for machine embroidery. This would involve recreating the design into stitch types and patterns allowing the embroidery machine to create this artwork in stitch.

E is for...

Embroidery Floss - Also known as Stranded cotton, this is a type of thread commonly used for hand embroidery, cross-stitch, and other needlework techniques. It consists of multiple fine strands of cotton twisted together into a single thread. The number of strands can vary, typically ranging from 2 to 6 strands.

Edging - Edging is often used for finishing or defining the outer edges of a design giving a more polished look. Common stitches for edging include blanket stitch, satin stitch and overcasting. In Goldwork Pearl Purl is often used for edging to add a clean finish to the design.

Embellishment - The addition of any decorative elements such as beds, sequins, ribbons and spangles are all kinds of embellishment. These extra materials are used to enhance the design often adding in a bold, eye catching or textural element to the piece.

F is for...

Frogging - A Frog or Chinese Frog is an ornamental braiding for fastening the front of a garment that consists of a button and a loop through which it passes. Frogs are usually meant to be a design detail. Where many frogs are repeated beyond practical needs, this purely decorative form is termed ‘frogging’.

Fly Stitch - The fly stitch is sewn on with three points which creates a ‘V’ or a ‘Y’ shape depending on the length of the holding stitch.

Framing up - Before you start your embroidery process you will need to frame up your fabric in your embroidery frame of choice. When framing up you will need to ensure that your fabric is secured tightly, this ensures your fabric remains taut and smooth during embroidery. This will help achieve even stitches and a professional finish.

Finishing Stitch - Similar to Anchoring you are using two stitches to secure the end of your thread to the fabric to avoid unravelling and remove the need for a knot at the back of your fabric.

G is for...

Goldwork - Traditionally used in military and ceremonial items, pieces are hand embroidered in Goldwork Bullion and other metal threads, creating intricate and luxurious designs. Goldwork embroidery is a key part of the work done here at Hand & Lock, this technique is used in our studio, taught in our school and is often used in both our Military and Fashion products.

Gilt - In embroidery terms Gilt refers to the bullion thread used to embroider Goldwork. Gold Bullion is 2% Gold, whereas Gilt is plated in Gold. Gilt is more commonly used as it is the more adorable option and doesn’t tarnish as fast as Gold.

H is for...

Hardanger - Hardanger is an ancient Persian form of embroidery traditionally worked with white thread on white even-weave cloth, using counted thread and drawn thread work techniques. It is sometimes called whitework embroidery.

Herringbone Stitch - Often used as a decorative stitch or to create borders and finishing, the Herringbone stitch works across two parallel lines connecting them together creating a zigzag pattern.

Hand Embroidery - By creating a piece by hand no two pieces are likely to be the same, these small pieces of variation can add a unique touch to a piece. With just a needle, thread and a frame, hand embroidery allows you to add a personal touch to a garment, create a piece of art, decoratively repair a piece of damaged fabric and so much more.

I is for...

Ikat - A dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres prior to weaving. The word ikat derives from the Indonesian word meaning ‘to tie’

Interlaced Stitch - With straight stitches used as a base, another thread is run under the straight stitches to create an interlaced effect. It can be used on single, double or triple lines of straight stitches to connect them together without going through the fabric.

J is for...

Jacobean - A form of crewel embroidery used for furnishing characterised by fanciful plant and animal shapes worked in a variety of stitches with two-ply wool yarn on linen. Popular motifs in Jacobean embroidery, especially curtains for bed hangings, are the Tree of Life and stylised forests, usually rendered as exotic plants arising from a landscape with birds, stags, squirrels, and other familiar animals.

Jacquard Stitch - This decorative technique is used to mimic the style of a woven Jacquard fabric, stitches are sewn diagonally in a step down pattern with distinctly different altering rows to create this effect.

K is for...

French Knots - A knotted stitch is any embroidery technique in which the yarn, bullion or thread is knotted around itself.

Kid Leather - A soft leather that is often treated to have a metallic finish on one side. This is sometimes used in embroidery to cover a larger area with a smooth metallic.

L is for...

Lunéville - This is a French Haute Couture technique also known as Tambour Beading. Lunéville or Crochet de Lunéville is a French term for drum and tambour work. The embroidery is done with a hook working through a fabric stretched tight as a drum. A tambour hook makes one stitch, the chain stitch. The hook is held on top of the frame with the threaded beads or sequins underneath.

Lace -  Lace commonly refers to a delicate and often intricate fabric that can be used as a base or as embellishment in embroidery. Lace can also refer to Military Lace, this is most commonly made in Gold or Silver, this is mostly used for Military Uniforms and costume work. 

Lazy Daisy Stitch - A decorative stitch resembling a daisy petal, this is used to embroider flower-like shapes.

M is for...

Mellor - A mellor, also known as a laying tool, is a small, slender tool used in embroidery to manipulate threads and stitches. It typically has a pointed or rounded tip and a smooth, flat surface.

Monogramming - Typically, a motif of two or more interwoven letters, such as a person’s initials, used to personalise a possession or garment. Monogramming is often created with hand embroidery for one off personalisation but machine embroidery is used frequently for large runs, on site embroidery events and for more difficult to sew fabrics.

Moorish Stitch - The Moorish stitch is a series of diagonal stitches with a pattern that runs along the design. With smaller stitches filling up spaces in between, it can be used to fill up larger areas with embroidery.

N is for...

Needles - Different embroidery needles do different jobs. There are several commonly used embroidery needles. Embroidery (or ‘crewel’) needles have sharp points and slightly elongated eyes. They’re used for crewel work and most surface embroidery where piercing through the fabric threads is necessary to the stitching. Tapestry needles have long eyes and blunt points. They’re used for counted work, drawn thread work, canvas work, or other types of needlework in which the point of the needle is not meant to pierce the fabric threads. Chenille needles have a long eye like the eye on tapestry needles, but a sharp point, and can be used effectively in crewel work and other wool embroidery, or any surface work where a longer eye and a sharp point is desired. Straw or milliner needles have an eye and shaft that are equal in thickness, which makes them ideal for French knots and bullion knots, or any stitch where the needle must pass through multiple wraps of thread.

O is for...

Or Nué - Or Nué (or shaded gold) is a form of goldwork embroidery using couching where different coloured silk threads are stitched over the metallic base of gold threads to form patterns or designs, often figures or narrative scenes.

Openwork - This technique involves removing parts of the fabric creating open spaces in the base fabric and accentuating these spaces with the surrounding embroidery. Open work is used in many other crafts such as pottery, woodwork and architecture.

P is for...

Pearl Purl -  Pearl Purl is most commonly used for edging embroidery work. It is also used for adding detailing to pieces. When the wire is pulled slightly it will start to reveal a gold string-of-pearl-like appearance, this can be controlled by how much you chose to pull or not pull apart the coil. The pearl-like texture allows for thread to be passed through or over its coils with ease.

Passing Thread - Passing thread is a mercerized cotton which is then wrapped with either a lurex or 2% gold thread to create a hair-like quality. It can be used for edging and for filling in shapes. Its delicate quality makes it very pliable meaning it can be used around even the smallest shapes.

Plate - Gold Plate, in essence, is a metal ribbon. It is usually stitched down in a zig zag pattern and must be worked from a thin area to a thick area to achieve the best effect. Plate is used across multiple facets of Goldwork embroidery. It is used to add shiny detailing to pieces and used to fill areas. It tends to crack very easily so it is often worked over a thicker padding

Pouncing - A method for transferring designs onto fabrics. A fine powder (Pounce), made from ground charcoal, chalk dust or powdered crayfish shell is dusted over a stencil to transfer a design to an underlying surface.

Q is for...

Quilting - The word ‘quilt’ comes from the Latin culcita meaning a stuffed sack. Quilting is the process of sewing two or more layers of material together to make a thicker padded material.

Queen Stitch - This stitch consists of four straight stitches that starts and ends at the same point. A straight stitch is horizontally stitched in the middle forming an orb-like shape. It can be used to cover entire fabrics with embroidery.

R is for...

Running Stitch - A basic straight stitch with even stitches. Just like its name, the thread runs through in and out of the fabric.

Rice Grain Stitch - Similar to a straight stitch, it is a series of small stitches but with shorter stitches on the top of the fabric compared to the bottom. It is also known as the seed stitch.

Raised Chain Band - With rows of straight stitches as a base, chain stitches are used to create a raised effect. Just like its name, the final result looks like a row of braids.

S is for...

Spangles -  Spangles are metal sequins. They also have a seam in the sequin which creates a sealed split through the spangle. They are much heavier than traditional sequins and tend to be a little thicker.

Seed Beads - Seed beads are small, often rounded beads used primarily in jewellery-making and various craft projects. They are typically made of glass, but they can also be made of plastic, metal, or other materials. Seed beads come in a wide range of sizes, colours, and finishes, and they are often characterised by their tiny size and uniform shape. 

Satin Stitch - A common stitch used in embroidery for covering larger areas, the satin stitch is a simple straight stitch that is sewn closely together and can be shaped into any space that needs to be filled.

Stem Stitch - A stem stitch is similar to a Back stitch. However the thread is put under the middle of the previous stitch connecting the stitches together.

Silk Shading - Silk shading, also known as thread painting, is an embroidery technique that uses long and short stitches in embroidery thread to create a smooth gradient of colour that mimics the appearance of painting.

Stumpwork - Stumpwork is a raised embroidery technique that created three-dimensional designs by using padded stitching, wire and additional materials to raise elements off the fabric.

T is for...

Twill - A type of fabric which has a distinct pattern of parallel ribbing usually made of cotton or polyester. Because of the structure of the ribbing, it is a durable fabric.

Tambour - See Lunéville

U is for...

Underlay - A layer of underlay stitches are used to stabilise an area of embroidery before the actual stitches are sewn onto it. It prevents fabric from pulling the fabric when stitching.

Underside Couching - A popular technique in ‘Opus Anglicanum’, underside couching is a technique where a thread is placed on the surface of the material while a second thread is brought up from the backside of the material and then used to encircle the laid thread. The tying thread is returned through the same hole and pulled with a gentle ‘pop’ to create a hinge.

V is for...

Van Dyke Stitch - This is a very interesting decorative stitch that is often used for borders. Equally spaced crosses are created and each is woven into the previous creating a ladder effect with stacked pointed triangles running through the centre.

Vermicelli - A chain stitch design accomplished by tambour or Cornelli Machine usually described colloquially as a ‘squiggly’ line. The technique is named vermicelli after the pasta because of its appearance. It is also sometimes referred to as ‘cornelli couching’.

Velvet Stitch - It is a special stitch used to create a fuzzy ‘velvet’ effect by keeping the stitches loose while securing down each loop. After an area is filled, the loops can be cut to create the fur-like fuzzy effect.

W is for...

Whitework - See Hardanger.

Wheat Ear Stitch - Two straight stitches are met in the middle creating a ‘V’ and a loop stitch is used to connect to it. A series of these stitches will create a result that portrays a sheaf of wheat.

Woven Wheel Stitch - Five straight stitches are met in the middle and are used to create a base for this stitch. Then another thread is used to wrap around these straight stitches in different lengths. The spiral shape in the end looks like a flower and is often used in embroideries portraying nature.

X is for...

X-Stitch (Cross Stitch) - Cross stitch artwork is created through lots of X-shapes in various colours to create an image. This is usually done on an evenweave fabric like Aida, as this provides a grid for the crosses to keep the design neat and even. Cross stitch is often used to create a more pixelated look to the artwork but by using a tighter weave fabric and smaller crosses you can make cross stitch very intricate.

Y is for...

Yarn twist - A spiral arrangement of the fibres around the axis of the yarn. The twist binds the fibres together and also contributes to the strength of the yarn.

Z is for...

Zig Zag Stitch - A back-and-forth stitch used where a straight stitch isn’t suitable, such as in reinforcing buttonholes, in stitching stretchable fabrics, or when temporarily joining two work pieces edge-to-edge.